Mark Reeves 8/11/25 Mark Reeves 8/11/25

Olive Harvest in Southern Tuscany

The Fall is harvest time for olives in Southern Tuscany. Late October through November is the prime time for the harvest, when the olives transition from green to a purple-black color. This indicates optimal ripeness for producing oil.

Nature has a say in the yield and quality of the crop. Fall is the rainy season in Southern Tuscany. Too much rain, however, can reduce the yield and the quality of the olive oil. In particular, heavy rainfall increases the water content in the olive fruit, but not the oil content. Therefore, while the olives might be heavier, milling costs increase due to the high water content. Heavy rainfall can also cause olive oil to taste bitter instead of fruity and fresh. So, a little rainfall is good, but too much is not.

*Olives almost ready for harvest in the garden at Cas’ Anita*

When the harvest begins, it’s an all-engaging enterprise in the community. People call in sick for work; children don’t show up at school. Timing is everything, so folks are obsessed with the harvest. Life seems to come to a halt, until decaliters of freshly pressed extra virgin olive oil are brought home from the local frantoio (a commercial olive processing plant), most of which are run as cooperatives.

*Raking the trees with a vibrating rakes, causing the olives to drop onto nets draped on the ground, where they are collected*

The majority of cultivated olives worldwide belong to a single species — Olea europaea. Some say that there are as many as 119 different cultivars of Olea europaea in Tuscany. Notable Tuscan cultivars include Pendolino, Maurino, Leccio del Corno, Frantoio, Leccino and Moraiolo. In Southern Tuscany, at the foot of Monte Amiata around Seggiano you can find the relatively small, and highly-prized Olivastra Seggianese, particularly rich in antioxidant polyphenols. You might enjoy a visit to the very unique olive oil museum of Le Radici di Seggiano Foundation in Seggiano.

*Freshly harvested olives at Cas’ Anita*

Once you have had fresh extra-virgin olive oil, properly containerized and stored, you won’t settle for the olive oil on the grocery store shelves. In fact, you might ask: Is that so-called olive oil on the grocery store shelves really olive oil at all? It’s hard to believe, considering that a single mature tree, on average, only yields about 3.5 liters of oil. It would take a lot of trees to stock all of the grocery store shelves in the world. One quart of extra virgin olive oil requires approximately 11 pounds of olives (and, even more, if there has been a lot of rain).

Olives (yes, including a few leaves) being conveyed to a press and eventually to a centrifuge at Rocchi Mario Frantoio Oleario in Batignano (GR)

So, once you understand the oil-making process — and have experienced the taste — of freshly-pressed extra virgin olive oil, it’s hard not to become an oil “snob.” Always try to use olive oil within one year of the harvest date. Good producers of olive oil publish the harvest date on the back label of the bottle. So, the next time some snooty waiter at a fine Italian restaurant places an out-dated bottle of olive oil on your table, immediately pick it up, turn it around, look at the date, sneer with great disdain, and ask him if he has something a little fresher.

*The delectable result — liquid gold — at Rocchi Mario Frantoio Oleario in Batignano (GR)*

Now that we know how it’s harvested and made, let’s try a little olive oil. The simplest and best way to enjoy fresh olive oil is to lightly toast a slice of rustic crusty bread on an open fire, drizzle it with olive oil, sprinkle a little salt to taste and serve. Of course, you can add very thinly sliced (or diced) fresh garlic on top, but try not to overpower the taste of the oil. Better yet, if you want to enjoy the taste of fresh garlic, rub the garlic on the toasted bread, like sandpaper, before drizzling with olive oil. That’s the classic method. Some Italians enjoy freshly-made and cooked pasta (tagliolini, for example) drizzled with olive oil and nothing else. Another classic dish is pasta olio aglio (oil and garlic). Lightly sauté the oil (you don’t want to overcook the oil for this dish), with a generous portion of fresh minced garlic and red pepper flakes. Add some salt to taste. Toss in some al dente cappellini or thin spaghetti, stir with a wooden spoon, remove from the heat and add a handful of freshly chopped parsley and grated cheese (parmigiano reggiano or pecorino romano, as you prefer), stirring until well mixed. Because of its rich and tangy taste, this pasta dish goes well with a glass of a robust, corposo chianti.

Mark Reeves 8/7/25 Mark Reeves 8/7/25

Wild Orchids of Tuscany

The orchid family, found on all continents except, possibly, Antartica, is one of the largest plant families in the world, with over 880 genera and 28,000 species. There are really three ecological classifications for orchids, based upon their habitats and adaptations — epiphytes, xerophytes and terrestrials. Epiphytes grow on trees (but are not parasitic), xerophytes grow in dry conditions on or among rocky surfaces and terrestrials grow in the ground. Europe is home to somewhere between 40 to 60 orchid genera and approximately 250 orchid species. Many of these orchids are found throughout Tuscany.

The height of the blooming season for orchids in southern Tuscany varies year-by-year, depending upon the date of the last frost and the beginning of Spring rains. As a general rule, orchids begin blooming in Tuscany in late March and early April. As you head north from Tuscany, and eventually reach the Dolomites, the blooming season extends into May and June.

*Anacamptis morio*

Commonly growing in full sun, at low to medium elevations, in leafy mulch in prairies — or even along the sides of the road — in southern Tuscany.

*Anacamptis morio*

A colony of *Anacamptis morio* was found at a cool elevation (approximately 2000 feet above sea level) along the gravel road between SP160 and Eremo David Lazzaretti in the Province of Grosseto. This species is also found in abundance along SP441 between San Galgano and Massa Marittima in the Province of Grosseto. This clone has exceptional color.

*Orchis*
*pauciflora*

A colony of *Orchis pauciflora* was found at a cool elevation (approximately 2000 feet above sea level) along the gravel road between SP160 and Eremo David Lazzaretti in the province of Grosseto.

*Orchis italica*

This cultivar of *Orchis italica* was found at a relatively low elevation (approximately 1,000 feet above sea level) in the hills below Monte Antico in the province of Grosseto.

*Orchis purpurea*

*Orchis purpurea* is found throughout southern Tuscany at relatively low elevations (500 to 800 feet above sea level), blooming in March and April. It is not unusual to find this species alongside country roads and in old olive groves.

*Orchis italica*

Another clone of *Orchis italica*. Commonly known as the “naked man orchid” for certain anatomical imagery suggested by the formation of the labellum, cultural folklore suggests that consuming *Orchis italica* promotes virility, but there is no scientific evidence. Just in case, see the recipe below.

*Orchis purpurea*

A dark color form of this species, growing in a field in southern Tuscany at an elevation between 400 and 600 feet above sea level.

*Orchis purpurea*

Yet another color form of this species, found at the base of the falls in Bagno Vignoni (take the gravel road to the left, as you are heading up the hill to the parking area at Bagno Vignoni and walk around the basins of water at the end of that road).

Ophyrs sphegodes

This species is prevalent in southern Tuscany. This clone was found at the base of the falls in Bagno Vignoni. A large population of this species can be found on the east side of the Strada Provinciale Leopoldina just outside of Paganico (GR) across the street from the entrance to Agriturismo Piatina.

*Serapias vomeracea*

A colony of Serapias vomeracea can be found on the east side of the Strada Provinciale Leopoldina just outside of Paganico (GR) across the street from the entrance to Agriturismo Piatina. This roadside location is occasionally mowed, but the orchids continue to come back every year.

*Serapias vomeracea*

A close-up photo of one of the specimens in the colony of *Serapias vomeracea* near Paganico (GR).

Some orchids are edible, and even considered to be nutritious. Salep is a nutritious and traditional food product made from Orchis italica. Dried tubers of this species can be ground into a fine powder. Adding one part of this powder to fifty parts of boiling water creates a jelly that can be beneficial to the digestive system, immunity support and bone health. It’s also a source of energy due to its carbohydrate (glucomannan) content. Spices such as cinnamon, ginger and cloves can be added to the mixture for flavor. Honey can be added for sweetness. Salep is also made into ice cream (known as kaimaki ice cream in Greece), and can be used as a thickening agent in other desserts. A word of caution — in some areas, Orchis italica and other wild orchids are considered endangered, so be sure to check local laws prior to harvesting tubers, and always harvest sustainably.

Mark Reeves 8/4/25 Mark Reeves 8/4/25

Visit to Roccalbegna

Roccabegna is beautiful medieval village in southern Tuscany. This small village rests in the shadow of Rocca Aldobrandesca, a fortification built upon an enormous rock outcropping on the edge of the village. Simply park your car and enjoy a stroll through this quaint village.

*Rocca Aldobrandesca rising over the village of Roccalbegna*

As you stroll through the village, be attentive to the details. You’ll find garden walls with beautiful stone carvings.

*Stone carvings in a garden wall, Roccalbegna*

*Detail of a lion’s face in a garden wall, Roccabalegna*

Roccalbegna has a rich history. Originally a feudal estate of the Aldobrandeschi family, it later became a part of the Republic of Siena. Following the fall of the Republic of Siena, Roccalbegna was in the hands of the Medici family. Given the rich history of this village, under the patronage of some of Italy’s most noble families, the architecture of the town is superb, yet simple.

On the outskirts of Roccalbegna, don’t miss Caseificio Il Fiorino, Località Paiolaio. This is one of the finest cheese makers in the area. The salesroom is a real treat. Caseificio Il Fiorino specializes in artisanal pecorino (sheep’s milk) cheeses, offering a wide variety delectable specialties.

*Herb infused pecorino cheese, Caseificio Il Fiorino, Roccalbegna*

Speaking of pecorino cheese, one of the favorite Tuscan appetizers (by way of Sardegna) is pecorino arrosto. There are innumerable variations on this dish. You simply cut thin slices of a young pecorino cheese (you can use primo sale, if you can find it). Then, arrange the slices (in several layers, if you like) on top of very thin pear slices in small ceramic or stoneware single-serving baking dishes and roast in the oven until the cheese is melted, but not brown. Once the cheese is done, drizzle with a rich honey and serve immediately. Another variation involves roasting the cheese (without pear or other fruit), and drizzle or brush the cheese with tartufata (truffle spread) when it comes out of the oven. Be sure to use a good quality tartufata. Some low-end tartufate include mushrooms for additional body. Mushrooms and truffles have entirely different flavors and should not be combined! You can also used shaved truffle slices as a topping for the cheese, if you can find fresh truffles (for shaved truffles, always use fresh truffles, not the ones that are sold in cans or jars — they generally have no flavor). If you use shaved truffles, drizzle a fine olive oil on top of the truffles. Olive oil for this type of confection should be fresh — no more than one year from the harvest. Instead of truffles, you might lightly spread an olive tapanade on top of the roasted cheese. Again, be sure to serve immediately, accompanied by a rustic loaf of bread. Try one of these recipies or invent your own variation! Buon appetito.

Mark Reeves 7/22/25 Mark Reeves 7/22/25

Warm Springs of Southern Tuscany

Southern Tuscany is home to a number of therapeutic warm springs. The temperature of the water varies at different springs, depending upon the subsurface geothermal conditions.

The best known and most picturesque warm springs bathing area in the Southern Tuscany, Cascate del Mulino, is located near the village of Saturnia. In addition to the bathing area carved into an outdoor cascade of natural travertine pools, the warm waters from the springs can be enjoyed at an indoor/outdoor spa upstream from the natural pools. The waters of Cascate del Mulino are not the warmest in Tuscany, but they are certainly comfortably warm, hovering at a constant temperature of approximately 99° F.

The thermal waters at Petriolo in the province of Grosseto are perhaps the warmest of the outdoor warm springs in Southern Tuscany at a constant temperature of approximately 109° F. The waters are pumped from an underground geothermal reservoir into a series of cascading travertine basins that have formed over time. The ambiance at Petriolo is a bit on the Bohemian side, but don’t be alarmed. Everyone seems to be enjoying themselves.

*Bathing pools at the warm springs in Petriolo*

Bagno Vignoni is a hill town, built around a warm spring in the Val d’Orca, not far from San Quirico d’Orcia and Pienza. The town square is actually a stone basin measuring approximately 50 meters by 30 meters, continuously filling with warm spring water that serves the spas in the town. There are natural pools for bathing at the Parco dei Mulini near the main parking area as you come into the town, but they are on the edge of a precipitous cliff, so don’t slip! At the foot of the cliff there is a public bathing area below a waterfall. The temperature of the water runs approximately 120° F at the source, and then cools to approximately 95° F in the pool on top of the cliff in Parco dei Mulini, to approximately 82° F in the pool at the foot of the cliff.

*Natural warm springs pool at the foot of the cliff in Bagno Vignoni*

If you are approaching Bagno Vignoni from San Quirico d’Orcia, take the gravel road from San Quirico d’Orcia to the beautiful hill town of Vignoni Alto, which overlooks Bagno Vignoni. Vignoni Alto is a tiny picturesque village in the hills, and well worth a visit. The composition of the buildings is exquisite and the views are magnificent.

There are no changing rooms or showers at the outdoor natural springs. So, if you intend to take a dip in the warm springs, you might invest in a full-length terry cloth poncho. You can use the poncho as your personal changing room. Everyone does it, so you’ll fit right in!

If you can’t take a dip in the warm springs, you can make a dip. Let’s make crema di carciofi. It can be used as a dip for fresh vegetables, a spread for crostini, or, a pasta sauce. Take a good number of fresh artichokes (at least 1 per person). Remove the bracts and chokes, and peel the stems. Chop the hearts and stems into small pieces, and immediately place the pieces into a bath of water and fresh-squeezed lemon juice to avoid discoloration. Prepare a sauté of chopped garlic and shallots (use a generous amount of both) in olive oil with a little salt (and hot pepper flakes, if you like). Add the chopped artichokes and a touch of dry white wine (vermentino or pino grigio). Cover and steam over low heat until the artichokes are soft, stirring as necessary. Once the artichokes are soft, drain the liquid in the pan and blend the artichoke mixture in a food processor with a little (not very much ) cream cheese, until the mix has a rustic texture (mildly chunky, not completely pureed). Why cream cheese? Isn’t that an American product? Why not use mascarpone? Well, Italians often use cream cheese for creating creamy mixtures, because cream cheese has a longer shelf life than mascarpone, so you can always have it on hand. Once the mixture has the texture that you are seeking (which depends on how you will use it), it’s ready. If the mixture is too think for your purpose, you can thin it with some of the liquid drained from the sauté pan. If you are making a pasta alla crema di carciofi, before sautéing the garlic and shallots, sauté some pancetta or guanciale. Remove the crispy pancetta or guanciale from the pan (hold it for later) and proceed with the recipe., leaving the drippings from the pancetta or guanciale in the sauté pan for flavor. As you are preparing the crema di carciofi, begin to heat your water for the pasta. Be sure to salt the pasta water, and, if you like, you can flavor the water with the discarded artichoke bracts and stem peels. Once the water has been boiling for a while, remove the artichoke discard from the water before adding the pasta. As always, be sure to cook the pasta al dente. If you can’t do that, then, perhaps, order a pizza, and use the crema di carciofi as a potato chip dip. When the crema di carciofi is ready to mix with the pasta (try using pici, if you can find it; otherwise use a thick spaghetti), add the crispy pancetta or guanciale to the sauce, reserving some for garnish, and, if you like, add little grated pecorino toscano. Serve with a Tuscan chianti. Measurements have not been provided for this recipe. This is intentional. The absence of measurements allows you to be creative, varying quantities to taste. In Italian recipes, you often see the abbreviation “q.b.” This means “quanto basta,” or “as much as needed” or, in the vernacular, “to taste.” Measurements are just numbers; there’s no accounting for flavor. Buon appetito!

Mark Reeves 7/17/25 Mark Reeves 7/17/25

Visit to the Eremo di David Lazzaretti & Santa Fiora

In Southern Tuscany, on the peak of Monte Labbro (adjacent to Monte Amiata) at approximately 1200 meters above sea level, stand the ruins of the Eremo di David Lazzaretti. Construction of the Eremo began in 1869 by David Lazzaretti, the so-called prophet of Amiata, as the home of his new community “Giurisdavidica.” Giurisdavidica, a Christian peasant movement and commune, was formed by David Lazzaretti to unify religious and social issues of the day.

Today, all that remains of Giurisdavidica is a rich composition of ruins. The journey to the ruins (approximately 1.5 km of inclined hiking) begins at the parking area at the base of the peak of Monte Labbro. Ascending the mountain from the parking area to the peak, you witness magnificent views. In the Springtime, the wildflowers are in full bloom. The colors in the landscape along the trail to the peak constantly change, as different species of wildflowers blossom successively as the weeks pass. As the elevation changes along the trail to the peak, the vegetation changes from a prairie environment mixed among craggy rock formations to a steep dense forest. Finally, at the peak, the ruins of Giurisdavidica rise from a grassy knoll. The vast views from the peak are astounding. On a clear day, you can see the Mediterranean Sea.

*Eremo di David Lazzaretti near Santa Fiora*

My recommendation is to explore the ruins of Giurisdavidica in the morning, and, afterwards, have lunch in Santa Fiora. Il Barilotto in Santa Fiora is an excellent restaurant. Be sure to save the bread from the table. After lunch, take the bread down to the Peschiera to feed the fish (and a couple of very aggressive geese). The Peschiera is a reservoir that was created for trout breeding during medieval times, to supply the noble families in the area with fresh fish.

*Feeding Frenzy of Trout in the Peschiera; Large Sturgeon on the Bottom*

Speaking of fish, if you want to sample a real Mediterranean treat, try making fish baked in salt. It’s simple to make, and the fish is delicious — and your guests will love to watch you break open the salt crust when the fish is done. Start with a white fleshy fish that weighs about 2 1/2 pounds or so. You can use red snapper, yellowtail or even grouper, but I prefer branzino, which is much like Atlantic sea trout. Keep the fish whole, removing only the guts and gills. Do not remove the scales. The scales keep the salt from penetrating the fish. Open the gut and rub it with a small quantity of salt. Shove some herbs of your choice and some thin lemon slices into the gut. Then, take a large baking pan, cover the bottom with parchment paper and create a 1/2 inch-thick bed of moist coarse sea salt in the approximate shape of the fish. Moisten the sea salt by spraying it as you pour it, using an ordinary spray bottle. Place the fish on the bed of sea salt and begin to pour sea salt over the fish, moistening it with a spray of water as you pour. The sea salt will fall from the fish and begin to fill in the sides. From time to time, use a spatula to tamp down the salt on the fish and to form the sides. The goal is to cover the entire fish with a 1/2 inch sea salt crust. It’s just like building a sand castle around the fish Once the crust is complete, place the fish in a 400° F oven for 25-30 minutes. Remove the fish and let it rest for at least 10 minutes. If you applied enough moisture, the salt crust should be as hard as plaster. After the fish has rested, remove the salt crust with a small hammer, discard the chunks of salt and brush off the fish, so that the salt does not touch the flesh when you are removing the flesh from the bone. Slice the skin along the backbone, the tail and at the base of the head at the gill openings, and simply peal the skin off the fish. Remove the flesh from the bones with a spatula. The flesh will break apart, but that’s fine. It’s served that way. When you finish removing the flesh from one side, carefully flip the fish and remove the flesh from the other side in the same manner. Serve the fish with a fine quality olive oil (and nothing more) drizzled on top. Pair with a vermentino, an Orvieto classico or a dry pinot grigio. Buon appetito!

Mark Reeves 7/14/25 Mark Reeves 7/14/25

Summertime in the Garden in Southern Tuscany

Summertime is downright hot in Southern Tuscany. Temperatures range up to 100° F during the day, but, fortunately, they drop by 25° to 30° before dawn. We had a strong rain the other day, but, otherwise, rain has been scarce. At least the recent rain topped-off my 20,000 liter cistern, so that I can continue to water the garden without worries.

Despite the heat, the garden is growing in leaps and bounds at the moment. The English lavender (Lavendula angustifolia) is thriving in the heat, the santareggio (Satureja montana) is spreading to cover the ground and the mentuccia (Calamintha nepeta) is out of control. It desperately needs to be trimmed. The English lavender is in bloom year round. The santareggio makes an excellent and colorful ground cover. I was hoping that it would keep the vipers out of the garden, with it’s pungent, savory odor, but, based on experience, it doesn’t seem to do that. The mentuccia also spreads like a ground cover until late Spring, when it starts to grow vertical. I prefer to keep it clipped close to the ground. Otherwise it becomes woody with tall racemes of fragrant flowers, but, untrimmed, it begins to look like tumbleweed.

So, what do you do with mentuccia trimmings? You can use the trimmings to propagate new plantlets, or, even better, you can make a pesto — pesto di mentuccia, for a light summer pasta. It’s simple. For two people, use a handful of metuccia (soft green stems and leaves), one small fresh garlic clove, two tablespoons (or maybe a little more) of extra virgin olive oil, a bit of salt and one teaspoon of lemon zest. For texture, you can add some pistachios, pine nuts or walnuts. If you don’t have mentuccia, you could use a mixture of mint and oregano. Mash the mixture in a mortar with a pestle until you have a course paste (you can use a food processor, but don’t let the mixture heat up with the spinning of the blade, and keep it rustically course). The good thing about pesto is that, since it isn’t cooked, you can vary the quantities of ingredients to taste, as you make it — so, be sure to keep tasting it until you get it just right. For variety, try using roasted garlic instead of fresh garlic, but, either way, don’t use too much. It will overpower the mentuccia. If you need a little sweetness, add a bit of sun-dried tomato. Once the mixture is ready, let it sit at room temperature while the flavors meld and harmonize. Cook 140 grams of capellini, more or less, until it is al dente. Always salt the cooking water, but never add oil. If you miss the al dente moment, I recommend that you begin again! Turn off the stove, and quickly drain the pasta (never rinse it) and return it to the pot in which it was cooked. Add the pesto di mentuccia, some grated parmigiano reggiano or pecorino romano (if you like a cheese with stronger flavor and more salt) and a little more olive oil. Then, toss rapidly with a wooden spoon to coat the pasta with the pesto. That’s all there is — it’s ready to serve. If you want to indulge, fry up some pancetta until it’s crispy (but not burned) to garnish the top of the pasta. Pair this dish with a cool, crisp Vermentino or a dry Tuscan Rosato. Buon Appetito!